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ALLSORTS DOG TRAINING BLOG

Getting to the bottom of Digging

28/7/2017

 
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LET'S GET IT OUT THERE ... SOME DOGS DIG - FACT! 
It's one of the most natural behaviours a dog can display, sometimes without any encouragement. So fighting such a raw behaviour can be futile.

WHY DO THEY DIG?
There's a number of reasons, here are a few of the most common:

  • Releasing energy or frustration
  • Safe guarding an important resource
  • Trying to reach something they can hear underground
  • As a means to escape
  • To make a cool spot to lie
  • As part of a 'nesting' behaviour in some females
    ​
But what about my lawn? I hear you cry.
Reprimanding your dog or chastising them when they dig or after the event, will only serve to create mistrust and avoidance in future. It won't stop them digging. 
TIME TO THINK CREATIVELY
One of the most commons reasons dogs dig is due to boredom. So in this case why would you want to stop them digging if it helps release some energy, frustration and stress? Why not encourage it? Yes you heard me right, encourage it. Now I'm not saying you need to train your dog to be an avalanche search and rescue dog (although I'm sure they'd love the job opportunity). I'm talking about giving them a designated digging area in your outside space, which is even more desirable and fun that the rest of your garden. We do it for children so why not dogs?


You could use a kids plastic sandpit or perhaps a large wooden planter. The deeper the better. Fill it will sand and encourage your dog to dig in it by burying food, bones or a toy. To begin with you may have to show them what to do but more often than not they get the idea. If you've told them off in the past for digging, they may be hesitant about doing it in front of you. I often see dogs completely confused by their owners sudden enthusiasm for them to dig but with this positive encouragement they soon take up the challenge and enjoy the interaction with their owner.

If you want to make it more tricky for your dog to find something buried in the sand why not take a small cardboard box or two, put some smelly food in it and tape it up. Bury it under the sand for them to find and then they have to work out how to get the food. They may need your assistance initially.
​This is one of the most fun games you can play with your dog and it uses both their brains and bodies. 10-15 minutes of digging games can even replace a walk if necessary.

Try it with your dog, you may find it's the best way to save your lawn and plants if your dog is frustrated and bored.

How can you influence your dog without saying a word?

18/5/2017

 
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If we learnt more about how to communicate in 'dog language' rather than expecting them to understand human language, then surely we'd all have more social and well mannered dogs?
If we learnt more about how to communicate in 'dog language' rather than expecting them to understand human language, then surely we'd all have more social and well mannered dogs?

DOGS DON'T SPEAK ENGLISH (or any other human language)
​Studies at the University of Arizona have found that humans speak on average, over 16,000 words in a single day. It’s understandable that dogs are simply overwhelmed by the cacophony of sound coming from our mouths every day. Perhaps this is why so many owners tell me their dog has 'selective hearing' or 'deaf ears'.

THE SILENT TREATMENT
I urge you to take a moment and to just sit with your dog without saying a word. I can assure you that you are still communicating with your dog but in a very different way, through body language. Are you relaxed, excited, frustrated or angry? Is your dog’s demeanor influenced or can you influence it, by your mood? In future, keep in mind what your body language says when you speak to your dog, as it can have a profound effect on the response.

YOUR WISH IS MY COMMAND
Telling a dog what to do by saying a command word, when it has no clue what that is, must be very frustrating to a dog. Just because you say a word like 'stay' doesn't mean it miraculously understands what it is you are asking it to do. Imagine walking into a room with no clue what is expected of you, the only way of knowing you’ve done the right thing is someone saying “Good Dog”.

For example, I see people say the ‘stay command’ over and over again and then get upset with the dog when it breaks the stay. There's several reasons for this;
  1. The dog has not been shown repeatedly what the owner wants it to do successfully, before applying a command word to the action
  2. The expectation on time and distance is too much too soon, small milestones with big rewards makes for more consistent results.
  3. The owner may be inadvertently teaching their dog 'learnt disobedience', so instead of repeatedly teaching the correct action they are teaching the wrong action.
  4. The dog, in it's moment of confusion, seeks the owners help and reassurance by moving towards them and is then commonly reprimanded
  5. I guarantee the body language from the owner is probably all wrong; ask yourself, are you smiling because your dog is correctly staying in position or are you serious and assertive?

HOW CAN YOU COMMUNICATE MORE POSITIVELY WITH YOUR DOG? 
It's simple, become aware of what your body language is portraying. Use attention and affection as your primary reward (within 2 seconds of the desired behaviour) and most importantly, always show your dog what it is you want them to do by guiding them step-by-step through the process first before using a command signal or word. This ensures they understand every actionable element of the 'command'. Only then can you apply a ‘word command’. Less is truly more!

Positive Crate or Bed Training

8/3/2017

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It's natural for many species to have a home, den or nest in their territory. It serves as a safe place to retreat to when feeling under threat or wishing to relax. So even with pet dogs, it is critical that they have a safe place of their own to retreat when they feel insecure. An indoor crate is the perfect solution. This is particularly important for anxious, fearful or insecure dogs, especially rescue dogs, and puppies. Many people also find them very effective in house training a puppy/dog quickly, helping them to feel secure when travelling, or for any dog that is rehabilitating after surgery.

BUILDING A POSITIVE ASSOCIATION
  1. Ensure your crate is big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in
  2. Position it in your home away from the main entrance or where visitors may frequent regularly but where the dog feels comfortable.
  3. Ensure it is snug, with comfy bedding and a blanket over the top/sides.
  4. You may wish to put a non-spill water bowl in there too.
  5. Spend time with your dog in the room where the crate has been positioned with the door of the crate open to get your dog more familiar with the new object.
  6. Place something with your smell (an old unwashed jumper) in the crate and any toys they like.
  7. With your dog on lead and the crate door open, using a portion of your dogs dinner and some tasty treats (cooked chicken) mixed in, guide your dog in to the crate by luring them in with the food and placing/throwing it on the base of the crate. Verbally praise them if they step in. DO NOT shut the door.
  8. Now guide your dog back out of the crate.
  9. Repeat this at least 6-12 times ensuring you verbally praise your dog heavily as they go in, releasing more food if they get their whole body in to the crate.
  10. Give your dog a break for at least 20 minutes.
  11. Now repeat steps 6-8 but this time say ‘ON YOUR BED’ as you guide them in to the crate.
  12. Repeat step 10-11 but this time close the crate door behind the dog and continue dropping food in to the crate through the top, keeping the dog is in there for at least 10 -15 seconds.
  13. Now repeat step 12 but increase the length of time the dog remains in the crate with the door closed and drip feed food through to them over the period of time.
  14. Now repeat the exercise throughout the day to encourage your dog to go ‘ON YOUR BED’ on command, guiding them with the lead if necessary.
  15. Every dinner time they should be fed in their crate
  16. Any high value rewards (e.g raw bones/leftovers) should only be fed in their crate.
  17. We advise they sleep in there at night and any whining/attention seeking barking must be ignored completely unless you feel there is a desire for the dog to go to the toilet, which you'll know if you take it outside and it goes to the toilet.
​It is important that the dog understands that their crate is their ‘safe zone’ in their house where nobody, except the people it fully trusts, will approach them. It's the perfect way to teach children about giving a dog space too as it's very visual for them to understand.
If your dog at any stage seems anxious, fearful or reactive to anything, then you need to immediately guide them on lead (do not drag them by their collar) to their crate. Reward them verbally followed by a food reward if necessary. Once the ‘threat’ has passed which you have dealt with, and only when the dog is calm and relaxed, can the dog come out of the crate. This will help the dog understand that you deal with any threats and not them which is much safer for all.

The 'On Your Bed' training is invaluable for any dog and something we recommend you teach them, whether using a indoor crate or any dog bed.
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What is a toy to a dog?

23/1/2017

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I often ask this question to many people that own dogs. The most common reply is usually a bought dog toy from a pet shop. Including and not limited to; soft stuffed toys, squeaky toys, tug toys and ropes, kongs and treat balls, silicone or nylon bones, balls (of various types), ball on a rope and so the list goes on.

THE DEMONSTRATION
​So when I show people how to play with their dogs, it often surprises them that I can get them to play with pretty much anything they choose, from your car keys to your sunglasses, to even a $10 note from your wallet. I guess what I'm trying to say here is that a dog doesn't understand where you get the toys from and that you spent half your wages on an elaborate selection of the cutest, funniest or toughest toys. For them it's all about how you play with those toys. And when I say how 'you' play with those toys, I mean just that.

UNDERSTANDING PLAY DRIVE
Whilst many dogs will self amuse with some toys, as they all have a desire to play, it's critical to recognise that they require interactive play as well. This can be with another dog but it is much more important for future training and obedience that most play is with its owner. Now this is not as simple as you think. Often the barrier to fun play is the owner themselves. They are often too embarrassed to act silly, excitable and playful; particularly in front of someone else. So my first task is always to teach and demonstrate to the owner just what I mean and how to engage with their dog, often using the methods that 2 dogs playing together will use;
  1. 'desire'. Many dogs always want what another dog has got particularly if they are young. Those of you with children will understand this, it's just the same. It's all about the perceived 'value' of the item. If that dog makes it look interesting and worth holding on to, then I guarantee the other dog will want to get it.
  2. The 'chase'. The classic I'll chase you, then you chase me game, even more so when a toy is involved.
  3. 'competition'. Who will get to the object first or win a game of tug?
  4. Teaching 'success' for continued encouragement. If the dog always loses then I guarantee all you will do is suppress their desire to play with toys or play with you. The old fable that you must always win the game to be 'top dog' really can cause more problems that it solves. It's about striking the right balance. Lots of them winning, or I prefer the term 'success' at the start to really encourage them. Then put in more control measures in to the game to ensure they still succeed but have to abide by the 'rules' of the game which are set by you. For example asking them to sit and wait before you throw the toy. This way you still encourage the dog but are in control.
  5. Finally the 'exchange'. To prevent the dog becoming reluctant to give up the toy you should always exchange one toy for another of equivalent value. The easiest way to do this is by having two identical toys,and I mean identical, even in colour. This is one of the best ways to encourage a retrieve. Don't be tempted to grab the toy out of the dogs mouth or chase them around to get it (as this only encourages possessiveness). Sit or squat down and encourage the dog to bring the toy to you and when they come to you (right to you not half a metre away) verbally praise and stroke your dog along their body (not their head or collar) for at least 10 seconds to reward them. Then produce the other identical toy and wait for them to spit the one they are holding out of their mouth (it can take a few moments initially as they weigh up their options). Be patient and wait, it will happen and if not make the toy you've got look more interesting. Once they do drop it verbally praise them, and pick it up before throwing the other toy.This ensures they do not have the opportunity to pick up both toys and then have control of both of them.

GAME RULES 
  • You start the game when you are ready
  • You finish the game when the dog is still keen to play more
  • You remove the interactive, 'special', toys so they are out of reach of the dog until next play time.
  • If the dog gets too excitable, rough, demanding or barks at you, stop the game immediately, walk away with the toys and ignore the dog for at least 5 minutes. Try again after the 5 minutes and only play if you are satisfied your dog is playing to your 'rules of engagement'.
  • Only once the dog is keen to play with toys with you, establish some controls like a 'sit' and 'stay' before they're allowed to get the toy.
  • If they go to snatch the ball back again let them (do not compete with them for it, just turn your head away and ignore them and play with the toy you have). Then wait until they bring their toy back again and drop it, praise them heavily, pick the toy up and throw the other one.
  • If you have a multi-dog house hold it's advisable to play independently with each dog to ensure one does not out-compete the other which will only serve do diminish their play drive or increase possessiveness. Only once you have established their focus on you and they both abide by the rules can they potentially play with you at the same time.

There is truly an art to playing with your dog and every dog is different in character. Different approaches are necessary for different dogs to ensure you get the best play drive and focus on you. But one thing is for sure, your genuine enthusiasm to play and reward is the key. Dogs, like children, know if you're faking it and not giving them your whole attention. Take note smart phone users!
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    Articles by Estelle Leyshon, head canine trainer at Allsorts Dog Training, Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

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  • Home
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    • Contact Us
  • Dog Training
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      • Early Learning Pups
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      • Top Teens
      • School Holiday Program
      • PP Booking Terms & Conditions
    • Companion Dog Training Course
    • Loose Lead Workshop
    • Building Play Drive for Obedience Workshop
    • Recall to the Whistle
    • Stop & Stay Workshop
    • Breed Workshops >
      • Terriers Workshop
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      • Gundogs Workshop
      • German Shepherds Workshop
    • 1:1 Dog Training
    • Behaviour Courses >
      • Reactive Dog Course
      • Reactive Dog Program
      • Behaviour Seminars >
        • Separation Anxiety Seminar
        • Territorial Aggression Seminar
        • Reactive Dog Seminar
    • ADT Booking Terms and Conditions
  • Dog Sports
    • Nosework Courses
    • Tracking For Fun Course
    • Fun Scent Dog Games Workshop
    • Dog walks in the Bay of Plenty
  • Shop